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Archive for October, 2002|Monthly archive page

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There Are Computers in Iran!!!

In Asia, Iran on October 31, 2002 at 7:03 pm

Yes, it’s true.  Iran truly is a progressive country and there are functioning computers.  In fact, the internet connections are probably the best here.  So in case you haven’t guessed, we are now in Iran.  Eric has put up some beautiful photos on the worldwidewandering.org site so have a look and be very surprised.

We crossed the border last Friday in one hour and ten minutes, a record for anyone who has ever tried crossing from Turkey.  That includes bringing Eric across who was taken into a private room for questioning but made it out alive after two minutes of ‘Hi – how are you, do you love our country?’.

So far we’ve been stopped a number of times by the police and military, but mostly because they have no idea what to do with us.  Tourism is so low because of 9/11 that we we’re only the second overland truck to cross into Iran through Turkey this year.  When the military spots us now, they are really at a loss as to what they are supposed to do.  However, they treat us with respect and are more curious about us than anything else.

One night we stayed at the Caspian Sea.  When the locals found out we were in the neighbourhood, they all showed up on their motorbikes just to look at us.  Some had never seen foreigners before so they just sat and watched while we ate dinner.  The next morning when we woke up someone had brought us fresh bread for breakfast.  This was after we had dinner with a French arms dealer.  Don’t ask me how we meet these people, but I have no objections to getting to know the types you only see in movies.

Anyways, we’ve been hanging out in Tehran for a few days and although it’s a big city, I haven’t done much sightseeing other than to visit the former U.S. embassy which is now affectionately known as ‘the U.S. Den of Espionage’.  It’s pretty interesting to see all the propaganda painted on the walls outside – it’s in total contrast to how the Iranian people really feel towards Americans.  They are always trying to reassure us that they love all North Americans and do not necessarily hold the same views as the government.

So now that I’m here, you’re all probably wondering the same thing – what’s the traffic like?  Haha, I know you’re more interested in the head scarf thing but I really do have to address the whole manner of driving here.  It’s the most chaotic thing I have ever seen in my life.  It’s the funniest game of chicken between pedestrian and driver – the pedestrian knows he’ll lose yet persists in standing there til the car swerves around him.  Today I tried to play the game and almost won against a Peugeot until Adam freaked out and pulled me back.  A red light at an intersection appears to mean that if the red light applies to you, quickly turn right or left into oncoming traffic.  All cars drive without the following three things:  headlights (hot pink do not count as you can barely see them), a clutch, and windshield wipers which is not such a big deal unless it rains like it did all day yesterday.  Arnout also pointed out that there is no such thing as sideview mirrors, probably because they’ve all been knocked off at some point.  I won’t even start on the phenomena that are motorcycles.

As for the head scarf, I actually do not mind wearing it except when I am pitching a tent.  Then it just gets in the way and nailed into the ground about 2 times before I start screaming and then one of the guys comes and finishes up.  It’s also a pain when you are in a hotel room without a private sink and must put the thing on to go outside to find a place to wash your face.  For the most part however, it’s not all that noticeable and one added bonus is that it catches the food that misses my mouth and provides a snack for later on.

So there you have it, about six days in Iran and I can’t find a single thing wrong with it.  I’m glad we’ve added an extra week on because there is so much to see and we probably won’t get to half of it all.  In fact, I’m willing to bet that most of you would actually enjoy it here yourselves.  Just stop watching the news and check out Eric’s website to see how beautiful it really is.

This Saturday is 7 weeks on the truck and we are all still getting along like best pals.  The only person I’ve had to punch thus far was a dirty old cab driver in Lebanon.

That is all for now.  Iran wants me to tell you that it loves you all!!

(check out more photos of the Alborz Mountain entrance here…)

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Almost There…

In Iran, Middle East, Turkey on October 24, 2002 at 6:57 pm

Ishak Pasa, building completed in 1784. Dogubayazit

Right now I’m in an internet cafe in the frontier town of Dogubayazit, waiting to drive to the Iranian border early tomorrow morning.  The town we’re in right now is a beautiful place 35km from the border.  Unfortunately due to current events there is no tourism and it appears that the townspeople are suffering for it.  If you want to know what there is to see around here, there is always Mount Ararat which is really quite spectacular. In fact all of Turkey is amazing.  I prefer the Eastern part to the Western as its not so touristy and the people are unbelievably kind and generous.  The scenery is beautiful as well.  This morning when I got out of bed I could look through the mountains and see one of the ranges in Armenia.  It’s so weird to be on the other side of the world seeing stuff I’ve only ever read about.  Tomorrow is the day I’m looking forward to the most.  (Read a longer version of the story here…)

We have to leave early as crossing into Iran often takes no less then 6 hours of hassle, waiting, and having the truck searched.  It will be the first time we’re all separated from Adam as he has to cross the truck alone.  I’d have to say he is the first person I’ve ever had to trust with my life, literally, and not having him in view means I’m going to have to take care of myself.  Not that I’m complaining, but it has been nice thus far having others do all the thinking and planning for me.  Anne will be with us though for the whole customs thing which is nice since she’s done it a few times before already.

Eric, the American, finally got his visa today which is right at the last minute and highly unusual as no Americans are getting in at the moment unless they are with a commercial tour group.  My visa experience was a hassle but nothing compared with his.  The Indian visa was also a little frustrating but its all sorted out now.  We’ll get the Pakistani visa at the border when we get there.  While we’re in Iran and Pakistan all the Brits will tell people they are Australian and Eric will have to be Canadian.  I must say that I enjoy this as that just adds one more wacky element to the equation.  Today I’m also trying to book my flight out of Delhi back to Amsterdam.

And today is the last day for about 4 weeks that I can walk around with my hair showing.  Tomorrow it goes under wraps until we reach India which is probably a good thing since it’s looking kind of ratty right now. Apparently I have very Arabic features so when I’m dressed up in my hejab, most people think I’m from this region which leads me to believe that we are descended from Ishmael.

Anyways, I must go now.  Thanks to my number one gem of an email writer, Andrew.  A close second is Seraphina whose emails I have enjoyed immensely.  Mom and dad, I’m a little disappointed in your lack of parental affection via the internet.  Even Auntie Rhonda writes to me more than you do.  Does this mean I have to sleep on the couch at Christmas time?

Alrighty then,  that’s it from Turkey – more to come later from wild areas of the world!!!!

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In Turkey

In Lebanon, Middle East, Turkey on October 19, 2002 at 6:47 pm

Lebanon was pretty cool, very European and quite clean.  The best story is from Baalbek but all I can say is that we were hosted by a local ‘tribal’ family that grows really ‘interesting’ plants which they ‘export’ to Europe.  Very nice people although I’m not sure you’d want them in your backyard.

We were in Beirut last week during the Francophone convention so the military presence was huge and unusual.  A friend of mine from accounting is originally from Beirut so he got in touch with his family and best friend who all ended up hosting me and one of the guys from the trip for all of Monday.  We got to see the sunset over the city while booting along in a Mercedes with suspension!!  Much different from the truck and very enjoyable.  The Lebanese people were much nicer than I was expecting considering that most reports have said the Lebanese are indifferent to tourists.  It was awesome to get back to Syria though and I’d have to say it is definitely my favourite country thus far.  Unfortunately we had to leave it yesterday to get back to Turkey where we are now staying in the Cappadocia region which has to be seen to be believed.

Currently we are sleeping in a cave and it is very comfortable.   Every morning the hot air balloons in the region go up so you can hear the hissing from the gas when they take off.  Today I finally got to a hammam (Turkish bath) and quite enjoyed it.  Got the massage thrown into the deal and I think I was thoroughly beaten and cracked to high heavens.  I thought with the 12 layers of skin they scrubbed off that I’d lose my tan but the cleaning actually made it more luminescent.

So we are now done the Middle Eastern part of the trip, shortened since we didn’t go to Egypt in order to spend more time in Iran.  My observations of the Middle East are this:

Western media does a great injustice to a region that hates war as much as we do.  I did not meet a single extremist and there were no violent outbursts the whole time I was there.

All people, especially Syrians, are thrilled that any westerner has come to see their country and the first thing anyone says to you is ‘welcome!!!’  This is always followed by a smile and an attempt to engage you in conversation. They will often go out of their way to help you find where you need to go, and everyone invites you for a cup of tea.  It was not unusual for someone to actually walk me to where I needed to go and then explain my situation in Arabic so I wouldn’t have to fumble through it myself.

The number one fun thing to do in Aleppo, Syria is cross the road.  Once you get rid of traditional road rules, the whole game is highly entertaining and risky.  The one woman who was driving me around Beirut assured me that there are rules, for example, she signaled left while driving into oncoming traffic since somebody would eventually let her turn…

The fruit drinks in Syria are the best anywhere and incredibly cheap.  You can eat yourself silly for less than a dollar and the food is all amazing.

Anyways, of course there are more impressions but they’ll have to wait til another time.

I’ve made another adjustment to my travel itinerary.  I am no longer going to the Emirates or Oman as I’m tired of trying to get those visas.  I’ve decided instead to stay on with the group and go to Pakistan and India.  Commercial tour groups cannot go through Pakistan at this time which means the driver has to transit the truck through while the rest of the group flies to India.   Since we’re private this does not apply.  However one of the commercial drivers is going through the same time we are so we’ll probably end up convoying with him.  Also wıth the current political climate being what it is we’ll probably get a military escort.  HOW COOL IS THAT??????  I’m putting the itinerary for that part on the bottom of this letter so that if anything happens and makes the news you’ll be able to see if we are anywhere near the mayhem 🙂

I don’t know when I’ll be writing again as Iran is a bit iffy on internet connections, until two years ago it was illegal.  So if I don’t write it doesn’t mean I’m dead.  It means I’m still having an awesome time but can’t find a way to communicate it.  I’ll be here in Goreme for the next two days so if you feel like writing a note please do so since i can get it here.

Itinerary:
10.25  enter Iran
15.11  exit Iran, enter Pakistan at Taftan
16.11  to Quetta
17.11  Quetta
18.11  to Sukkur
19.11  to Dera Ghaza Khan
20.11  to Lahore
21.11  Lahore
22.11  Lahore
23.11  Lahore
24.11  exit Pakistan, enter India at Amritsar
25.11-5.12 Amritsar to Jaipur

I’ll still be coming home on Dec.19 so that is the only static thing at this time.  LIFE IS GREAT!!!!

That’s it from me on the Middle East so I hope you’ve enjoyed it and may even want to visit this incredible part of the world.  It really is incredible and undeserving of the reputation it has.  Hopefully I’ll be able to write from Iran but if not, happy Halloween and I’ll write again from India.

Alibaba in Bliss

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Back From Jordan

In Jordan, Middle East, Syria on October 8, 2002 at 6:38 pm

Just returned to Damascus after visiting Jordan for the past week.  I don’t know if it’s because Jordan is more well known than the other countries I’m visiting, but it didn’t have the same allure as Syria or Lebanon.  Nevertheless, it was pretty cool to see.  The highlights were the sunsets in the desert which I don’t think can be beat.  We camped out in Wadi Rum one night and in the morning the Muslim call to prayer was echoing off the mountains so it came back to us in harmony.  Pretty amazing and one of the nicest ways to wake up.  We went floating in the Dead Sea the day after we got there.  Yes, it’s true, any cut you have is amplified a billion times and lucky me, after floating for about an hour watching the sun rise, I stepped on a rock and gashed my foot.  Better than 12 coffees and an electric charge to wake one up let me tell you.

The night we camped at the dead sea, we were followed by the military down from Mount Nebo til they were sure we weren’t going to camp on the mountain.  Then just as we were cooking dinner, another military jeep came by.  Fortunately Captain Omar took pitty on us and let us stay.  He ended up staying for dinner and I managed to get one picture with him, but was too shy to ask if I could hold the AK-47 for the photo.  He gave us permission to stay the night and I guess he told the rest of his soldiers which is probably why they came to our camp in the middle of the night to watch us all sleep.  A little weird, a little creepy, but I suppose patrolling the already militarized section of the Dead Sea can be boring and watching people sleep is better than ???

Then we headed to Petra for a few days (read a longer version of the story here).  A bunch of us went there at 6 am to beat the tourists which we successfully managed to do.  We were the only ones there for about 3 hours apart from a French couple that disappeared up the mountain for awhile.  It was really amazing to walk down the Siq and then see the treasury around the corner.  The whole time I was there I kept pinching myself saying “I can’t believe Indiana Jones has been here!!!!”

Managed to get a pretty bad heatstroke that day and was apparently delirious upon arrival back to the hotel.  Kept looking for the pants I was already wearing.  The next day we were at the Wadi Rum.  I couldn’t go in on the jeep ride as my stomach would have heaved so a nice Bedouin fellow from the village took pity on me and took me for a walk around one of the valleys and Nabatean tombs.  Day after that we all headed to Aqaba for some snorkelling where my left leg was promptly introduced to fire coral, after which I had a hard time getting in the boat, fell off and gashed my left arm on the ladder after pinching my finger in the rope.  Don’t worry about imminent war, I will surely die before that from self- inflicted wounds.

Today we hustled back up to Syria and tomorrow we’re off to Lebanon.  The good news here is that I successfully obtained my Iranian visa last week!!!  Apparently all it takes is a smile and some batting of the eyelashes to be successful, not to mention a lot of cash.

A word on the people here thus far… everyone is very friendly and so happy that we are here visiting.  Everywhere you go you are invited for tea and conversation.  The other night Adam had to take care of some trip business so I went out onto the street, about 11pm, to just wait on the sidewalk.  Within 1 minute I had been invited to sit with three Libyans, 2 Iraqis, and all the shop owners on the corner brought me free tea.  The first thing anyone says to you here is ‘welcome’ and they all want desperately for you to say you love their country, which I do, so it’s not a stretch to extend the niceties.

Anyways, I’ve been told my e-mails are long so I’ll stop here after one final note…

When you are traveling in countries that are very different from home and things do not always look familiar, and other things are challenges, you start to re-evaluate the things in your life that are important or need prioritizing.  Toilet paper is one of these things and I must say that my wish is that I always have some around until the day I die.

That is all, next week a report on Lebanon.
I LOVE THE MIDDLE EAST!!!!!